The City of Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Grape-Treading Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel train pulls into a graffiti-covered stop. Nearby, a police siren pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Daily travelers hurry past falling apart, ivy-covered fencing panels as rain clouds form.
This is maybe the least likely spot you expect to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump mauve berries on a rambling allotment situated between a row of 1930s houses and a commuter railway just above Bristol downtown.
"I've seen people concealing heroin or whatever in the shrubbery," states Bayliss-Smith. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden city grape gardens nestled in back gardens and community plots throughout the city. The project is sufficiently underground to have an formal title so far, but the group's messaging chat is called Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Across the Globe
So far, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location listed in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which features better-known urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of the French capital's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and more than 3,000 grapevines overlooking and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in historic wine-producing nations, but has discovered them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia.
"Vineyards assist urban areas remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect open space from development by establishing long-term, productive farming plots within urban environments," explains the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the soils the vines grow in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the grapes. "A bottle of wine embodies the beauty, community, landscape and history of a urban center," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Variety
Returning to the city, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish grape," he comments, as he removes bruised and mouldy grapes from the glistering bunches. "We don't really know their exact classification, but they are certainly hardy. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with chemicals ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Activities Throughout the City
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking Bristol's glistening harbour, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from France and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so evocative," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her arm. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to look after the vines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has already endured multiple proprietors," she says. "I really like the idea of natural stewardship – of passing this on to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Terraced Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 plants situated on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy local waterway. "People are always surprised," she says, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."
Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting clusters of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants slung across the hillside with the help of her child, Luca. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It's just incredibly satisfying that you can actually create good, natural wine," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing vintage."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the wild yeasts come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to establish her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from one hundred vines he has arranged precisely across two terraces. Reeve, a Lancashire-born PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. But it is a challenge to grow Chardonnay grapes in the humidity of the valley, with cooling tides moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make French-style vintages in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," says the retiree with a smile. "This variety is slow-maturing and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"I wanted to make European-style vintages here, which is a bit bonkers"
The unpredictable local weather is not the only problem faced by winegrowers. The gardener has been compelled to erect a fence on